Arriving at the island of Moorea, whether by air or by sea, is a magical experience. From a distance, the peaks of Mount Rotui and Belvedere beckon, their ridges coiled like an animal at rest around turquoise lagoons. It is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. As you approach, the mountains appear in more detail, usually wreathed in fog. Little boats dance around the bays, coasting on breathtaking waters. When the sun is out, it certainly looks like paradise. 

I'm very careful not to romanticize island life, as I understand the economic reality for most of those who live on these remote tropical outposts. While city dwellers like us experience the temporary illusion of resort life, most people eke out a living any way they can, no matter how glamorous the setting. Usually, they work for the tourism sector, providing services for guests. Other locals, the lucky ones, run or own shops along the way. The remainder struggle to subsist, living in shacks and relying on public welfare. They are locked into island life and often see no way to escape. 

Moorea is a French Territory, which means that it's technically a part of France. With 16,000 inhabitants and covering 313 square miles, the island is the size of Memphis with a population like Boulder, Colorado. It's 11 miles northwest from the main island of Tahiti, which can be reached either via a very short plane ride (8 minutes and $80 round trip) or a longer ferry ride (40 minutes and $25 round trip).

Personally, I love flying and approaching an island from the air, as it offers an unparalleled perspective. However, in the case of Moorea, the ferry is much more fun and affordable. There's less waiting around than for the plane and it's a leisurely, yet brisk commute with mostly local passengers. The onboard café offers coffee, pastries and great sandwiches made with baguettes, while the lounge provides wifi (free for 10 minutes or longer if you provide your email address). Sitting on deck provides a great view of either island. The dark blue of the open ocean serves as a reminder that the islands of French Polynesia are the very tips of large volcanoes protruding from deep waters. 

These volcanic islands take a few different forms, from the mountainous, like Moorea, to flattened lagoons like Aitutaki in the Cook Islands. Moorea has a few steep mountains at its center, some of which have yet to be scaled. Most people live along a road which circles the edge of the island, which can been circumnavigated by car in about an hour. 

The first time we visited Moorea, five years ago, in December 2012, we stayed at the Hilton resort in the north of the island. The Hilton property, as well as the Sofitel and Intercontinental chains, provides iconic bungalows over the ocean. There is a glass section on the floor, through which you can observe fish life below. The rooms also provide direct access to the lagoon, with little platforms from which to lower yourself into the water. They're romantic and fun, but they come with a hefty pricetag at around $600 per night during peak season.

We managed to snag a deal from Expedia a few years ago, because we were traveling one week before Christmas, which is when all the tourists arrive. Our package included airfare, one night layover in Tahiti, flights to and from Moorea, and a garden bungalow at the Hilton resort. Our room was beautiful and well-appointed. Despite the lack of ocean below our feet, we felt more than OK with the small, private swimming pool we had in the back instead. The first couple of days were terribly hot and humid, so the cold pool more than made up for the lagoon view.

In fact, I would probably recommend a garden bungalow, as you dispose of all the same advantages as your ocean-dwelling neighbors, minus the higher pricetag and constant people walking by. One of the main attractions of the hotel is lagoon life, particularly the thrill of seeing small sharks swimming under the boardwalk where the crêpe restaurant is located. You can happily stay in the resort and never leave, which makes the hotel very happy. You can rent cars, bicycles and kayaks. The restaurants are very nice and the spa looks wonderful. However, if you want to see the rest of the island, the property is a bit isolated.

This brings me to my main recommendation: rent a car. It may seem like an unnecessary expense, but it will set you free. At about $60 a day, it's not cheap, but you will make up this expense by eating outside the hotel property. Also, it's an easy way to see everything, from the viewing point and hiking trails at Belvedere, to the Rotui fruit juice factory, and the shops and restaurants at Marehepa. If it's hot and humid or raining, the car also provides welcome escape and relief from the weather. Trust me, it's worth it!

This time, we decided to visit Moorea on a smaller budget. Our first stop on this round-the-world trip was supposed to be New Zealand, where we plan to drive around the islands in a campervan. However, I realized I couldn't go from our last few hectic weeks in California to living in an RV in the Kiwi wilderness for three weeks. I made the case for Moorea and I'm happy I did. While we spent about half of our overall 2012 budget, we had just as nice a time.

The second half of September is the tail-end of the busy tourist season in French Polynesia, as the weather soon switches from hot and dry to warm and wet, with tropical rains. The airfare only added a little extra to our itinerary and the layover broke up the long flight from Los Angeles to New Zealand nicely. Upon our arrival at Papeete Airport--where you're always greeted by a small ukelele band--we headed for the main road where a public bus provides a regular link to the ferry. Our luggage was a tight fit, so it's only recommended if you have carry-on or small luggage in tow. At the time of writing, it cost 200CFP (about $2) one way. 

The bus drops you off in the center of Papeete near the ferry terminal, where you can buy a ticket to Moorea for about 1500CFP ($15) one way. There are different sizes and speeds of ferry, so prices vary. Suitcases go into a large, communal crate, which is loaded by forklift on the ship. They are collected at the other end of the trip,  at the Moorea Ferry terminal. Once aboard (starting 30 minutes before the trip), most people head for the lounges and the café. Most of the tourists opt for the scenic view on deck. It's a great place for photos and relaxing, as long as you don't mind the wind.

When we arrived in Moorea this time, we were greeted by rain, which in the tropics means short, heavy downpours. After collecting our suitcases from the crate, we ran to Avis across the road and rented a small Ford Focus. This allowed us to make our way to our Airbnb rental in Maharepa and take in the neighborhood. Not much has changed at all. It's reassuring to know that life in Moorea continues at the same serene pace, no matter where we are.

A retired French-speaking couple showed us our digs--a modest Balinese bungalow in their beautiful garden. During our stay, Jona joked that it was like "glamping," because it was beautiful, but rustic. For ten days, we were surrounded by flowers blooming, birds singing and the occasional rooster crowing. It was a beautiful corner of the Earth to rest and forget about the bustle of the rest of the world for a while. There were small inconveniences, like a sunken bathtub in the middle of the living room, trying to take a shower in it without soaking everything, and a curtain separating us from the toilet rather than a door. Even with these minor inconveniences, it was a little paradise.

We adopted the local cat who paid us regular visits, as well as a couple of beautiful, but naughty dalmatians. Every evening, the roosters next door played silly-bugger on the roof of the neighboring house and occasionally a choir of dog howls would wake everyone up. Regardless, I slept deeply every night, dreaming vivid dreams and waking refreshed. Places like Moorea are for those of us who live hard and play hard--a place to recover and reset.

During our stay, we ate most of our meals on a little patio in the garden. We bought the food at supermarkets or from vendors on the side of the road, and we prepared 90% of our own meals. Moorea, like most islands, is expensive when it comes to food. Products need to be imported. Eating at home presents a considerable cost saving, although there are some spots, like Snack Mahana that should not be missed.

We spent most of our time exploring the island at a much more leisurely pace than our last visit. We hiked, we read on the beach and we bathed in the ocean. July to September is the best time to visit, as the weather is spectacular. The sun was out most of the time, lighting up the lagoons in surreal hues of blue that defied the imagination. We had to pinch ourselves a few times to make sure this wasn't all a dream. 

Today, we're setting out on the second leg of our trip, this time to New Zealand and that campervan. As I type these words at the Ladybird Café at the ferry terminal in Vai'are, Jona is reading and the birds are singing. A gentle soca song is playing on the radio, as a cool breeze blows through the bay. For the moment at least, everything is alright with the world.