Cambodia was the first Southeast Asian country I visited and remains for me an ideal representation of the region--a place caught between two vastly different eras. On the one hand, it is traditional, rural and simple. On the other, it is roaring into the twenty-first century, developing at breakneck speed, becoming part of a more homogeneous, middle-class Asia. As I sat on our bus back to Thailand, I looked out of the window at the rolling countryside, daydreaming, and noticed an old farmer, crouching in a rice paddy, tending to his crop. My mind felt comforted and charmed by this quaint image of a bygone era. However, in the next instant, a shiny new combine harvester plowed by in the background. This, to me, is the state of Cambodia right now: one foot is firmly in the past, while the other is decidedly in the future.

The country that I visited in 2001 is still there, but it is fading fast. At the time, there were about 620,000 visitors to Cambodia every year. Now there are close to five million and the vast majority head to the town of Siem Reap soon after arriving in the capital city of Phnom Penh. There are regular flights that make the trip straightforward. Last time I visited with one of my best friends, Victoria, we flew into the city and then took a boat up the Mekong River. I remember lasting all of 30 minutes on the deck of the speedboat, watching the world whizz by, before feeling too cold and having to head down to the hold with the grandmothers, small children and chickens. We didn't mind one bit. It was all uncharted territory for us, before the internet made traveling easier. It was the only country we could afford to visit at the time, because we were working in Japan; during the holidays, popular destinations were prohibitively expensive, as everyone was trying to travel simultaneously.

In those days, Cambodia was still a relative unknown. Most of our Japanese friends were concerned for our safety, as they thought the country was still littered with landmines from the Khmer Rouge era. It still bore the stigma of the killing fields, the bloodstained areas where the communist regime disposed of dissidents and suspected opponents, as well as intellectuals who didn't fit in with their new egalitarian ideals. Cambodia had a reputation for violence, poverty and isolation.

In fact, at the time we visited, the country was developing rapidly, attracting increasing numbers of tourists ever since Angkor Wat was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1992. A few months before our arrival in 2001, Angelina Jolie had visited Cambodia to film Tomb Raider, a story about a female adventurer in the vein of Indiana Jones, based on a video game of the same name. The film raised the profile of Angkor Wat, particularly in Asia, because the temples are photogenic and memorable. In the West, the actress made waves for adopting a Cambodian child named Maddox. Soon, everyone wanted to visit this exotic locale. Victoria and I were blissfully unaware of Jolie and Tomb Raider, but our guides and hosts soon filled us in.

I think the film signaled to the Cambodian government that there was serious money to be made from the Angkor Wat complex. Of course, it's already famous in Cambodia, even appearing on the flag, and features heavily in the country's history and culture. But the early 2000s gave the authorities a glimpse of just how popular it could become with foreign tourists. They made giddy projections for the next decade, which were only sidetracked by a global recession. Things are back on track these days and Angkor Wat is one of the busiest destinations for visitors in Southeast Asia.

Gone are the days of sleepy Siem Reap. It's now a hub of activity, with construction on every block. There are dozens, if not hundreds of hotels of all price ranges. While there are still hostels and guesthouses, there are more tour bus tourists than backpackers in town. This has had a dramatic impact on the quality of life in Siem Reap and Angkor Wat: instead of couples and small groups traipsing through sometimes deserted ruins, now the sites are bustling with vast numbers of elderly visitors, mostly from Europe and China.  

I found myself wallowing in nostalgia for the "good old days," when the temples weren't very busy, but then I'd catch myself feeling selfish. The locals derive a steady income from tourism and they want the same things as their peers in other countries. A booming tourism sector means jobs, which translates into improved livelihoods, healthcare and education. It's a good thing. I just hope that the authorities manage to preserve the sites for posterity. There are signs (some quite literal) that this is already happening: restorations are underway at many sites and some places are blocked off to avoid further decay and damage.

It was a privilege to return to Cambodia fifteen years later, this time with Jona, as I had always talked with her about my experiences and I never imagined I would come back one day with my wife. While in Bangkok, we decided that we would take a bus across the border and spend a few days in Siem Reap. The trip alone was an adventure. We nearly missed the bus, because our Grab driver (Grab is the local Uber) took the longest possible way to the station. Luckily, Jona managed to get us tickets on a later bus the same day. The whole ride took about 8 hours, two of which were spent getting across the border. We had electronic visas, which made life easier, but some people had to obtain a visa at the border crossing. Once that process was complete, we disembarked, walked through chaotic throngs of street vendors and hawkers, into the Thai border control office and then on to the Cambodian side. The experience was confusing and sometimes overwhelming, but lots of fun. When we were through, we gathered at a casino and boarded the bus again.

When we arrived at the small bus station in Siem Reap, we were caught in a torrential downpour, this being the monsoon season and all. Like most tropical rainstorms, this one was soon over soon enough and we settled into our hotel. Last time I was in town, I stayed in a modest guesthouse with a crocodile farm in the back yard (no kidding). It was Christmas and our friends Chris and Mary were in town for one overlapping night. We all had a lot of fun and the next few days were spent on the back of a scooter, visiting temples with Victoria. It was a magical and mystical experience. A place forgotten by time. No doubt my mind has embellished the trip over the years, until it became a little gem of a story.

This time, we stayed in a nice local hotel called the Royal Crown (or the Crown Royal, as we liked to call it), which had no crocodiles in the back. Overall, the whole experience felt like an upgrade: the digs were nicer, there were more restaurants and bars (but no Starbucks or McDonald's!), and more people. Nonetheless, some things were unchanged, like the pothole-riddled roads and constant offers of tuk-tuk rides. Also, while life here has become much more expensive than before and is now tallied in US dollars, it is still possible to visit on a budget.

The star attraction of any visit to the area is the Angkor Wat temple complex, spread out over dozens of square kilometers/miles and featuring dozens of temples. The three most popular structures are the main entrance temple, which everyone recognizes as "Angkor Wat," Bayon with its beautiful carved faces of Buddha, and Ta Phrom with its famous trees growing out of the temple. Unfortunately, it has become hard to enjoy these sites, because they are overrun with tourists pushing past each other to take selfies. However, the temples are so awe-inspiring that it doesn't really take away too much from the experience. In addition, the tour buses all seem to follow the same circuit. Most tourists stick to those three areas, leaving the other temples relatively uncrowded.

All tuk-tuk drivers propose the same routes: a short loop and a long one. They both take about the same amount of time (8 hours each), but the long option takes you further and requires more gas. The short ride costs about $10-15, while the longer one will cost $15-20. We were fortunate to find a great driver, Richard, who spoke good English and was a history buff. He gave us a detailed explanation before we entered each temple and pointed out details we would have missed otherwise. After three days together, it was hard to say goodbye.

As we sit here on the bus back to Bangkok, we're looking out of the windows at water buffalo and cows grazing in the fields; people zipping by on scooters, making a living; children playing and fishing in rivers; and, that big blue sky like they have in Montana. It is indeed hard to say goodbye. The most memorable part of our trip has really been the Cambodian people. Despite the rapid change taking place, they remain warm, friendly, and genuinely kind. Many of the tourist attractions give back to the community, with some of the profits funding local nonprofit organizations. This is not just a country, but a community. For a brief time, we felt we were part of it and we're sad to leave. But, then again, you never know when we'll be back.