Life in Luxembourg
Luxembourg is one of those places that you've heard of, but, chances are, you've never visited. It's most famous for being a tiny country and for being a banking haven for the rich. While it is both small in size — it is after all a city state — and rich in assets, it is well worth exploring. We spent an afternoon there on our way from Düsseldorf to visit a close friend living in southeastern Belgium. We arrived by train, thoroughly charmed by the countryside we saw along the way. When we disembarked in Luxembourg, we were glad to store our luggage and walk around for a few hours, with the weather gods on our side.
The most striking aspect of Luxembourg is its architecture. The old houses and buildings are stately and well maintained. While there are strong influences from neighboring Germany, France and the Netherlands, Luxembourg has a style of its own. The country is also very well-off. Being born a Luxembourger is akin to winning the genetic lottery. The education and healthcare systems are highly developed, and property values are astronomical. The quality of life is fantastic for citizens, but out of bounds for foreigners, most of whom work in Luxembourg, but live across the border in Belgium where income and property taxes are more affordable.
Later, on our way to Belgium, we drove down roads lined with stores and gas stations, but only on one side of the road─the Luxembourgish side. Clever entrepreneurs take advantage of Luxembourg's lower sales taxes to sell food and gas to Belgians at very competitive prices. The southeastern corner of Belgium is quiet, less well-off and more rural than Luxembourg where cultural events abound. If you want to attend a concert, go to the movies or go clothes-shopping, Luxembourg is the place. Despite its small size, the city has developed into a cosmopolitan center, with offices for multinational companies and multilateral organizations like the European Union. If you can find work here, life can be very comfortable.
We enjoyed a few hours of sunshine, while we walked around the center of town, admiring the picturesque cobblestone streets and baroque restaurants. We also took an elevator down to the Grund, a valley in the heart of the city, where some of the most historic buildings line the river. From an earlier visit, I remembered a converted factory with restaurants and cafés. While sitting in an open opulent bar aimed at young professionals, we nursed a Belgian beer and listened to electronic music. While visiting Luxembourg is like a leisurely stroll in an elegant park, we were keen to move on to its more eccentric and earthy neighbor across the border.
A few days later, we did return for an afternoon at the movies — we saw Black Panther, in case you're wondering. We were endlessly amused to discover that you can buy champagne at the cinema. We also visited the American cemetery at Hamm, which is the final resting place for troops killed during the Battle of the Bulge, as well as their fearless leader, General George Patton. By this time, we had visited the Bastogne War Museum nearby in Belgium, which is dedicated to telling the story of the decisive battle that turned the tide at the end of World War II, and we realized what a debt of gratitude we all owe to these soldiers. It's humbling to think of the centuries of strife that scarred the countries of the Benelux (Belgium, Netherlands and Luxembourg). Today, these are places of peace, examples of the unifying threads of culture, commerce and cooperation.